One of the oldest and most historic hotels in Surabaya, the Hotel Majapahit is a great place to stay if you’re able to splurge. The original structure still stands, with its towers replaced by “wings” that connect the two side buildings. The grounds are lovely, with leafy palm trees and expertly manicured plants. Orchids spring from cracks in the trees.
Beautifully manicured grounds at the Hotel Majapahit.
The suites are spacious and offer all the luxuries you’d expect in a stay. The pool, roof terrace, and spa are all well worth stopping here for.
Bukit Kapur Jaddih, Chalk Mine, Madura Island, Indonesia
Connected to the city of Surabaya by a long bridge, the island of Madura is an interesting diversion from the city. As soon as you’ve crossed over the buildings disappear, replaced by flat expanses of rice fields interspersed with pockets of forest and tropical trees.
The place has the look and feel of a James Bond villain’s lair…but in a good way.
The beach is a prime reason people come here, but the island is famous for its chalk mines too, and I got to visit one. The mine is still in use, but an unused section will soon be turned into a hotel.
Madura island has several working chalk mines that are open for tourism.
You can take a short boat ride, or simply wander around the old mine tracks, looking at the atmospheric caves that have been hollowed out in long blocks.
Chalk cliffs and azure water make for a very picturesque setting
You can walk around on foot, take a scooter ride to the upper regions, or get poled by boat through the small canals.
The whole place has the look and feel of a James Bond villain’s lair. But in a good way.
This island is an easy day trip from Surabaya city, well worth the afternoon detour on a sunny day.
Surabaya is an interesting city and has a number of spots that are on the tourist map…or should be. One of them is the House of Sampoerna, a museum, cafe, gift shop, and factory for clove cigarettes.
Different types of tobacco used in Sampoerna’s clove cigarettes
Now while I am personally not a smoker and don’t recommend starting the habit, the House of Sampoerna has been a very large employer in the area and in particular, has helped women earn a living, participate in cultural activities, and more.
Now owned by the Philip Morris giant, the factory still produces hand-rolled cigarettes and you are able to watch the process from a viewing area. I had hoped to include a short video or photo but they have a strict no photo policy. I got this from the museum wall photos:
A photo of a photo of the workers in the House of Sampoerna factory
The speed with which the women work verges on impossible…hands flying, fingers a blur. Quite impressive and well worth a visit if you’re here in Surabaya.
The hardest part about getting to Indonesia is…getting to Indonesia. My flight left on time from Boston and arrived 15 hours later in Hong Kong. At 4:30 in the morning.
Not having anything else to do, I went to a small park a little ways away from the airport, where of all things, there was a group of birdwatchers all crowded around a little fish pond. When I asked what they were doing, they said, “Waiting for a bird.”
“What bird?” I asked.
“That one!” the man said, as the group begand madly snapping photos like paparazzi at the red carpet ceremony. I looked over the shoulder of one of the photographers and saw an adorable kingfisher perched atop the bill of a crane statue.
So cute. Despite myself, I had to get out the good lens and snap a photo.
A beautiful Asian kingfisher looks for minnows at a park pond
That was fine, but I still had hours to kill. I went back to the airport, paid for use of the lounge, ate some food, took a shower, and took a nap.
On the flight from Hong Kong to Surabaya, Indonesia, where I would enter the country, there was a medical emergency. Despite a lot of attention from the flight crew, the person didn’t seem in dire enough condition to require rerouting or delaying the plane. A relief, because the last thing one wants after a 15 hour flight and an 8 hour wait is to have the final leg, itself 5 more hours, delayed.
But it all went smoothly from there. It was dark, too dark to really see much as I went to my hotel, but clearly the Surabaya drivers are much like Tanzania. Not so many bicycles, but scooters zipping between cars, missing by inches (or less, sometimes!), big trucks belching fumes, and the occasional pedestrian trying desperately to cross before being flattened by the oncoming hordes. I am happy to not be driving (for once) which gives me plenty of time to look around.
Alas, jet lag is settling in, so I’ll have to write more later. Most likely at 1am or so, when I wake up…unable to get back to sleep.
But I am HERE. Indonesia. Surabaya City, East Java. Can’t wait to explore more and see what this incredible city holds!
Super excited for my upcoming trip to Java, Komodo, Rinca, and Bali. I’ll be flying in and out of Surabaya city, in East Java, then heading off to see Komodo dragons, the world’s largest lizard, and if I’m really, really lucky I’ll get to see a blooming corpse flower in the jungles of Meru Betiri National Park. Not to mention staying in some incredible hotels like the Tugu Malang and Tugu Bali, as well as doing a sail with PeramaTours on my way to see the dragons. To top it off, I’ll hike up — then down — Ijen Crater, famous for its active sulfur mines and incredible Blue Fire.
I hope you’ll join me for these adventures! Bookmark this blog for photos and stories from the road on this amazing visit to Indonesia!
Who is Ray Bartlett? I’m a travel writer, photographer, novelist, and tourism consultant — if you have questions about Indonesia or want to hire me to help promote your particular part of the planet, please email me. I’m also at the “RayGoesTo…” blog and at www.kaisora.com.
